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Burgundy
Exogyra virgula, those celebrated Kimmeridgean oyster
fossils that are at least 150 million years old, are part of the
unique geology of Chablis. they come to the surface on this
marl-limestone soil of the premier cru of montmains and
contribute to that special highly sought-after flavor.
The 2018 vintage,
still in the cellar
“Vinification of white wines demands great
care and sensitivity. Wine is a living product
and at this early stage in its life is extremely
fragile. My aim as an enologist working in
Chablis is to preserve the aromatic potential
of the grapes as far as possible, to bring
out the expression and characteristics of its
terroir after vinification. The most important
thing for me is to let the fruit express its
maximum potential through the wine.”
this is how yonne winemaker Lucie Depuydt
describes her approach to crafting the wines
of the maison J. moreau & Fils, which she has
done with great talent since 2007.
the 2018 is continuing the ageing process
in the cellars. only part of the Chablis
wines were bottled in march. Some of chABlis PREMIER CRu
the premier and grand cru wines will be
bottled in September, the rest being done
in spring 2020. this lengthy ageing will montmAins orgAnic 2018
leave its stamp on the 2018 vintage, which
is concentrated and indulgent, very much
in the style J. moreau & Fils wines since
1814, between terroir and the expression montmains is one of the 17 climats that make up the wine is still being aged, and should be bottled
of the fruit. Structure and texture combine the Chablis premier cru appellation. the vines lie on between november and January, depending on how
with vivacity and minerality. these wines the left bank of the Serein river in the municipality it evolves.
can be drunk in their youth, but have good of Chablis. the wines can be severe in their youth, “My aim as an enologist is to preserve the aromatic
keeping potential, which will bring out all but stand out for their excellent aptitude for ageing.
the elegance of their breeding. potential of the grapes as far as possible, to bring
See our full reportage on the memorable 2018 of the 37 hectares in the montmains climat, J. out the expression and characteristics of its terroir
harvest in the previous edition. moreau & Fils work with a 3.5 hectare plot grown after vinification. The most important thing for me
on Kimmeridgian* marl. is to let the fruit express its maximum potential
For the 2018 vintage, the first with organic certification, through the wine.”
the wine fermented very slowly until February 2019, Lucie Depuydt**
when a small proportion was put into oak casks, *Takes its name from Kimmeridge, a coastal village
the rest remaining unoaked to preserve freshness. in Dorset, England, which is the type locality for the
the choice of barrel is crucial for wines as sensitive Jurassic age clay formation that extends across the
as Chablis, and one of the wine house’s chief skills Paris basin as far as Chablis.
is managing the ageing process. the selection **Lucie Depuydt, winemaker at J. Moreau & Fils,
involves choosing fine-grained oak and heating the has written a thesis entitled: “Réalisation d’une
barrels to a medium toast to bring out the terroir, typologie des sols du Chablisien et recommandations
revealing its complexity. culturales associées”.
www.jmoreau-fils.com
J. moreau & Fils, Chablis
Boisset la famille des Grands Vins
6 www.boisset.com- Fall 2019