The precious vieilles vignes wines

Founded in 1814, J. Moreau & Fils is one of the oldest wine houses in Chablis. It vinifies the equivalent of a 250-hectare estate and encompasses several paradoxes: Working with volume and bespoke plot selection, stainless steel and oak, delicacy and power.

The vine is at the heart of the plot selection overseen by our talented winemaker Lucie Depuydt, who has forged long-term partnerships with more than 30 growers spanning some 200 plots.

Among them, two growers cultivate some very old vines, which make up village and Bourgogne Aligoté appellations, and which were planted by their forebears in the 1930s and 40s. These treasured plots produce exceptional fruit which is vinified separately to bring out all its potential.

The Chardonnay vines, planted in 1939 at Chemilly-sur-Serein (10km from Chablis) on Kimmeridgian limestone, are treated with utmost care so they can produce grapes without sapping all their energy. They grow in soil that encourages the roots to go very deep allowing them to withstand episodes of drought.

Given the octogenarian status of the vines, the wine is specially aged to bring out its aromatic depth. It is partially aged on lees in barrels that have been used for between two to five wines previously, while the rest is aged on lees in the vat. Then the two are blended and used to enrich the Chablis Veilles Vignes J. Moreau & Fils.

As for the superb plots of Bourgogne Aligoté, they were planted in 1929 and 1933, at a time when the wine was destined for everyday family consumption.

The vines draw nourishment from the limestone colluvium at Saint-Bris-le-Vineux, southeast of Chablis. Their deep roots allow them to resist drought well. The vines continue produce enough nice grapes to make a single cuvée.

Lucie makes this Aligoté the same way as a great Chardonnay, with alcoholic fermentation in 400-liter barrels that have been used for four previous years to moderate the degree of oak. Ageing on lees helps to protect and nourish the wine.

Once malolactic fermentation is complete, work in the cellar consists of overseeing these two young wines for 10-12 months until their outstanding personality is fully honed.